Japan: Kochi

2005 January 16
by norzu

Bye bye Beppu, hello Kochi
After the Jigoku Meguri and a visit to Yufuin, I took leave of the group and proceeded to town by train. Then, I had to take a cab to the ferry terminal about 10 minutes ride away. Thus begin my adventure…

My ferry was at 4.45 and I had over an hour to kill. Went to the tourist centre nearby, then to an electrical store across the road. Looked at digital cameras since my youngest sister hinted not very subtly that she wanted one. Not so cheap, about the same price as KL although there were more varieties to choose from.

Welcome to Beppu. taken on the ferry

Finally, said goodbye to Beppu and boarded the ferry. The lower deck is basically a flat space for you to sit or even lie down, which I did. I think I slept for a half hour when I heard the announcement saying that we’re almost near Yawatahama Port.

It was 7.45 in the evening when I got off the ferry, and took a cab to the train station. I had to wait as the next train to Matsuyama only comes in at 8.30pm. Another half hour of waiting. Luckily it was an express train, so it was about 50 minutes to Ehime Prefecture’s capital.
Unfortunately, the last bus to Kochi that I’d intended to take had left! It was only 9.15 and there’s no more bus. I almost cried at the counter. Called my cousin Eti but got her voicemail.I didn’t mind checking into a nearby hotel but Eti had already booked me a room at a hotel in Kochi.
So there I was, a gaijin, with two heavy bags, stuck at the train station. Desperate times call for desperate measures. I decided to take a taxi to Kochi, which is two hours away. The driver didn’t say no, but I could see that he was not particularly happy either. I was so relieved to be on the move that my eyes teared up. I didn’t even gasp at the cab fare the driver quoted (it amounted to some 40,000 yen. 100y = RM3.67, you do the math). The most expensive cab ride ever. Thank god I was given allowance moneyby the programme organiser, which covered the fare. I wasn’t too keen to use my credit card for the rest of my stay and luckily I didn’t have to.

So after almost three hours, I finally arrive in Kochi City. It was almost midnight when I checked in to the hotel. The single room was very simple, but clean. Not like the lovely Prince Hotel, but I was too tired to care. I like the bedside lamp and the old fashioned radio though.

old skool, man

The next day
Woke up eventually at around 10, and the first thing I looked for was Mister Donut. Heh. Saw in the map I had that there was one very near my hotel. It was heavenly, to step into the shop, and just look at all the yummy stuff they had. I stifled the urge to eat one of everything but settled for just two donuts and their black coffee. Then I walked around and took a bus to the airport.

My cousin’s college was a stone’s throw from Kochi Ryoma Airport so it’s very convenient for her to travel outside Shikoku Island and beyond. Showed me her dormitory block, which is occupied by four (or was it three?) international students. It’s more like a double story house, with a public kitchen and dining area, bathroom and three bedrooms.

Had lunch at a noodle bar at the airport. Typical of Eti, she befriended the owner of the shop since she started living there and that day we were treated with azuki for dessert – mochi eaten with sweet red beans gravy. Nice.

We then sat out in a rented car with me in the driver’s seat. I’ve only driven in Japan maybe twice before, and never further than 5km from my hostel in Fukushima City. But since Kochi seemed like a laidback kind of town, I felt confident enough to give it a go. Plus, we got a navigation machine to help us. The people at the car rental company looked worried though. Hehe.

kereta sewa yang cute

First stop was Katsurahama, where Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum was situated on top of a small hill facing the sea. We didn’t check the museum out actually, instead just drove up and down the hill looking at the scenery. Then it was a drive along the sea front before going into town. Eti wanted to take me to a tabehoudai or all-you-can-eat buffet restaurant so we went. The love for food runs in the family, you see. Heh.

So we had 90 minutes to do some damage to the restaurant’s stock. Started off with the grill – calamari, shrimps, onions, salmons, and other variety of seafood and vegetable. I am particular of what I eat so tak main ayam katok. Next came the salad, and sushi. After four days of (v. good) hotel food, I wasn’t that excited about sushi and sashimi but still had some lovely unagi and other stuff.

After that, it was the tempura and fried stuff. Passed on the rice, but had some miso soup. By that time I was quite full. And drinking three cups of ocha didn’t help. But Eti kept on going, helping herself to dessert – two slices of cakes and fruits. Macam raksaksa… Heh. Sorry, inside joke.

Time up and we left to do some shopping at, where else, if not the 100 yen shop. Got the stuff my mum wanted (kitchen lighters) and made our way to the airport to return the car. The staff of Daihatsu rental was relieved to have their car back safely. I bet they then made a thorough check on it, just to be sure.

Arrived at the hotel, we were moved to a larger room since Eti was staying with me that night. We walked around some more and ended up at Mister Donut again. I know, we’re eating non-stop but heck, it’s been three years since I had my last donut, ok. During the walk back to the hotel, Eti mentioned something that was niggling at the back of my mind earlier in the day.
There were men queueing up in front of some buildings and I noticed photos of girls posted on the windows of those places. Eti and I put two and two together and assumed that the place was part of the red-light district of Kochi City. Interesting, eh?

“Awak, saya tak pernah tahu pun ada tempat macam ni kat Kochi,” Eti said to me, in between laughs. We then made up theories about our hotel being in league with the yakuza after reading a sign that said:

This hotel has no affiliations with the Yakuza and a safe place to stay

Or something to that effect. You think I would just believe that? Despite my cautious nature, I decided it would be ok to spend another night there. Oh well, a bit of adventure in an otherwise a very typical Japanese kampung town.

Eti and I, in front of the hotel. No hotel name, I don’t want the yakuzas to find me
Can you imagine, naming your shop this?
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